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Predator Free NZ

You are here: Home / Resources / Trapping best practice

Trapping best practice

Introduced predators don’t belong here, they were introduced by humans and have a devastating effect on our native species. However, it is important to remove predators in a humane way that minimises pain and distress.

For your own safety (and for others), it’s important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when setting and maintaining traps.

Commonly-used backyard traps are bird-, child- and pet-safe because they are contained, e.g. Victor and DOC traps are inside wooden tunnels and Goodnature traps are secured inside hard plastic.

You should always wear full-finger gloves when handling and checking traps, partly to keep human scent (which may deter predators) to a minimum, but also to protect yourself from injury. Some introduced predator species such as rats may carry diseases (e.g. leptospirosis), which can also affect humans.

Find out below how to humanely and safely trap introduced predators, including what tools to use and where you should put your traps.

Select the predator you want to target:

  • Rats (in your backyard)
  • Rats (in the bush)
  • Stoats
  • Ferrets
  • Possums

The Department of Conservation has produced ‘A Practical Guide to Trapping’ in an easy to use booklet. Suitable for beginners to experienced trappers. Find out more here.


Target rats in your backyard

What type of trap should I use?

We recommend the following two types of traps…


1. The Victor Professional rat trap in a tunnel

This is an affordable and effective trap that is great for any backyard. The trap sits in a long wooden box, so it’s safe for children and pets.  You can purchase a Victor Professional rat trap and tunnel on our shop. If you live in an area where there are weka present you need to purchase a slightly longer weka proof tunnel, also available on our shop.

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

Set up 2-3 Victor Professional rat traps in your backyard and make sure they are placed inside rat tunnels. Place them on a flat surface near walls/compost or under cover.

Bait traps with some peanut butter and refresh often.

Check your traps every couple of days until you’re getting results and the catch rate goes down, then check every 2-3 weeks. The more rats in the area the more checks you will need to do.

Click here for instructions on setting up, baiting and checking the Victor trap.

Make sure you place the trap at the back of the tunnel (opposite the small entrance hole), away from small fingers.

2. The Goodnature A24 self-resetting trap

If you don’t want to handle dead rats or reset a trap too often, this is a great option. The A24 is self-resetting and needs to be checked monthly or to the manufacturers specifications. Any rats it catches generally get scavenged so you won’t necessarily see your catches.

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

This trap is available on our shop, and you can find specific bait and instructions for placement here.

Download our quick trapping guide.


Target rats in the bush

Trapping rats in the bush

What type of trap should I use?

The main difference between trapping in a backyard and trapping in the bush is the number of traps you’ll need, and where you place them. What you choose will depend on your budget and the amount of time you have to check traps. We recommend the below options:

1. The Victor Professional rat trap in a tunnel

This is the cheaper of the two options but requires more manual work for setting and clearing. You can purchase a Victor Professional Rat Trap in a tunnel on our shop.

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

Set them on lines 100m apart with a trap every 50m (100m x 50m), or closer in areas with a large number of rats. Place traps inside rat tunnels. Put a number on each trap and keep track of how many you’ve set, when and where.

Bait traps with peanut butter and refresh often.

Check your traps regularly (preferably every few days) until the catch rate goes down, then check once a month minimum. The more rats in the area the more checks you will need to do.

Click here for instructions on setting up, baiting and checking the Victor trap. 


2. A24 self-resetting rat trap

This is the more expensive, but less hands-on option. The A24 is self-resetting and needs to be checked monthly or to the manufacturers specifications. This trap is available on our shop, and you can find specific bait and instructions for placement here.

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

Download our quick trapping guide.


Target stoats

Best practice for trapping stoats

What type of trap should I use?

We recommend the use of three traps:

  • DOC 150
  • DOC 200 (you can buy one from our online shop)
  • A24 for stoats (you need to follow the manufacturers instructions for placement and bait options)

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

Where should I put DOC 150/200 traps?

Place along ridges, tracks, roads, and creeks/rivers – basically, anywhere that’s easy to reach. Set them on lines about 1km apart with a trap every 100m (1km x 100m). Put a number on each trap and keep track of how many you’ve set, when and where.

When should I check my DOC 150/200 traps?

  • About 12 times a year
  • Set and bait/lure traps during each check and make sure the traps are still working
  • Maintenance of traps is critical.

Bait for DOC 150/200 traps

  • Serve up some fresh rabbit, hare, possum, Erayz, salted rabbit, freeze-dried rabbit and/or fresh hen eggs
  • Lures should be changed regularly (exactly when and how often will depend on where the traps are) and disposed of away from the trap.

For information on setting up your DOC 200 trap, click here.

Download our quick trapping guide for stoats.


Target possums

Best practice for trapping possums

What type of trap should I use?

We recommend the use of two traps:

1. Trapinator

This is a simple and effective way of trapping low density possum populations and can be purchased from our online shop. It is an all-in-one spring-set kill mechanism in a plastic box and is mounted by screws onto trees, 1 m above the ground.

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

Bait with peanut butter, Connovation Smooth in a Tube and/or Possum Dough by Traps.co.nz.

For more information on setting up your Trapinator, click here.

Use this lure to encourage possums to your bait stations or traps.

2. The Goodnature A12

This is the more expensive, but less labour intensive option. The A12 can trigger 12 times before the gas canister needs replacing. You need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for placement and bait options. You can purchase the A12 from our online shop, and you can find useful information on setting up the A12 here. 

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.


Target ferrets

Best practice for trapping ferrets

What type of trap will I need?

We recommend the use of the DOC 250 trap — you can buy one from our online shop.

Make sure you always wear gloves when handling your trap or catches.

Where should I put my traps?

  • Along ridges, tracks, roads, farm buildings, and creeks/rivers – basically, anywhere that’s easy to reach
  • Set them on lines about 1km apart with a trap every 100m (1km by 100m)
  • Put a number on each trap and keep track of how many you’ve set, when and where

When should I check my traps?

  • Traps should be left out permanently.
  • Checks will depend on the season (ferrets are easier to trap in late summer and autumn) and how long your bait/lure takes to rot.

Bait

  • Serve up some meat (e.g. rabbit, hare, beef, possum), Erayz, salted rabbit and/ or fish. Fresh hen eggs can also be used if stoats are being targeted.
  • Lures should be changed regularly (exactly when and how often will depend on where the traps are) and disposed of away from the trap.

For information on setting up your DOC 250 trap, click here.

Download our quick trapping guide for ferrets.


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